Paella is taken extremely seriously in Valencia. Just ask Jamie Oliver. When back in 2016 the British chef included chorizo in his own version of the famous rice dish, the proposal triggered a Twitter storm of disapproval.
To be fair, he had noted in his original Tweet, “Good Spanish food doesn’t get any better than paella. My version combines chicken thighs & chorizo”, but the purists were still appalled, although many respondents adopted a humorous tone.
“My version of fish and chips combines aubergines with ducks,” chortled one.
Others were more serious… “You’re absolutely mistaken and your paella’s an abomination.” Or, somewhat ominously, “Remove the chorizo. We don’t negotiate with terrorists. First warning.”
And, from a true traditionalist, “The abuses committed in the name of Paella Valenciana, are excessive – an authentic scandal.”
Of course, paella can come in various forms, including using rabbit, seafood and even snails. But not chorizo, even if Oliver continued to insist it added a distinctive and appetising flavour.
It is quite certain that anyone visiting Alicante next Saturday (8 October) will not bump into Oliver, but they will find a veritable extravaganza of paella and other diverse rice-based dishes, when the city celebrates its “Arroz Fest”.
Organised with the objective of “familiarising locals and visitors with the quality of rice dishes and their varieties in a festive ambience,” the event will bring together chefs from nine restaurants, preparing rice dishes for public tastings as well as other typical local aperitifs including salted fish, mountain cold meats, cheeses, artisanal beers, vermouth and denomination origin wines – plus music by DJs from noon to 10pm.
Their rice dish ingredients – not all appropriate for a classic paella – will include (in various combinations) cod, baby squid, monkfish, prawns, free-range chicken, rabbit, veal, red tuna, Iberian sirloin and pork – and artichokes, turnips, chickpeas and kimchi.
Announcing details of the event, deputy mayoress Mari Carmen Sánchez said Alicante’s rich gastronomy has always been closely linked with rice, “our flagship jewel”.
Paella an “Asset of Cultural Interest”
Last year the Valencia regional government (Alicante is one of three provinces that make up the region) declared paella to be an “asset of cultural interest”.
The decree described paella as “the art of uniting and sharing”, and noted that it was at the heart of Valencia’s gastronomic tradition and had become one of Spain’s “most prestigious global brands”.
Paella’s modern origins have been traced to the La Albufera lagoon area (in Valencia province) in the mid-19th century, where the dish provided sustenance for peasants and farmers. Later that century paella became popular in dining establishments elsewhere in the region, including the Albufereta neighbourhood of Alicante. More recently, coinciding with the country’s tourism boom from the 1960s, it became a favoured dish among international visitors holidaying in other coastal areas around Spain.
World Paella Day
Spain, and specifically Valencia, doesn’t always have a monopoly on paella. Coinciding with this year’s World Paella Day on 20 September, 10 international chefs took part in a competition to cook the best paella.
Representing France, Eric Gil won the third annual World Paella Day Cup, while Argentina’s Juani Kittlen was second and Jaani Pasikoski from Finland third. Pasikoski’s creation included reindeer meat, boletus, onions, tomato and blueberries, while the Japanese representative – also drawing on home ingredients – used Chinese crab, green onions and ortiguillas (sea anemone).
The competition was organised by Valencia City Hall, Visit València, Turisme València and Turespaña, with the collaboration of various culinary organisations.
“Authentic” Valencian Paella
According to Visit València, the main ingredients of an “authentic” Valencian paella are:
- Chicken and rabbit
- Ferradura beans
- Lima (or butter) beans
- Tomatoes
And to season:
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Sweet paprika
- Saffron
- Salt
- Water
- Sprig of rosemary (to flavour)